I wanted someone who works with beauty but isn't decorative — an archivist who chose the sea over books. The Nenets bring the Arctic relationship with survival and navigation; Asturian culture brings that fierce Atlantic coast, the cider-makers and fishermen, the green meeting the grey. Her gown is made FROM her work — sailcloth, shell, glass. She's happy because she's exactly where she chose to be, doing exactly what she loves. That's the real magnetism. —Volt